Basic Grooming

Men’s Grooming Back to Basics

By Amber Flynn @expertgroomingadvice 

Get Your SWAG Back

Spring is here so it's time to put your best foot forward by                                                          shedding those winter layers and reclaiming you.

Investing a little time and money into your look is no longer considered vain or a "woman's thing". Men that put thought and effort into their appearance come across as confident, successful and sexy  Don't be fooled, even the men that seem to always look casually cool have put in effort to do so.So where do you start? With the basics. Before thinking about hair styles or fashion trends there     are basic grooming tips that all men should consider.

Cutting, trimming and shaving

Regularly scheduled haircuts should be priority. Period.

Find a barber who knows their stuff and become a regular. Not only will this make for great cuts, but an ongoing relationship with a barber can go a long way towards getting a cut in an emergency situation. Easy rule of thumb, if your friends or significant other have noticed you need a cut, you're already past due. Try being proactive, not reactive. Book your next appointment before you leave the shop from your current appointment. Depending on your hair type, style and growth rate your next cut should be between one and six weeks. I know that is a big discrepancy but a good barber will help you determine when you should come in for your next cut. This applies to hair on your head and facial 

hair.

Now let's discuss some other areas that need attention.

Eye brows, Ears and Nose   

                                                                                                                                                               Eye brows, You should have two of them. Most barbers will offer to help you with this, let them. Trimming and separating your eyebrows is easier for your barber than for you. Don't worry trimming is NOT the same as arching. 

Ear hair,  lets just say eww together. Again most barbers have got you covered here as well. If they don't normally do it or forgot, just ask.       

                                                                                                                                                            Nose hair, unless you have a really old school barber you're probably on your own. Try and trim or tweeze them at least once every two weeks but look out for any strays in between. 

 Armpits                                                                                                                                             This should not be up for debate. If you look like you 

have a troll in a headlock, trim that stuff. I'm not saying it needs to be completely shaved, which is acceptable for some people but can be very itchy and no one wants to be scratching their underarms all day.

Chest, back and groin                                                                                                                                                                                   These areas are a little more personal so discretion is up to you. It is important to note however that if you are going to shave these areas you will need to do it fairly often to avoid the itch factor, an issue that typically happens as the hair grows back, not to mention if there is something that feels worse than a hairy back, it is a prickly hairy back. Depilatories (hair removal creams) are also an 

option. Dissolving  the hair at the root means slower regrowth. But the process is a little more 

involved and would require enlisting some help for the hard to reach areas.Another factor with these 

creams is the possibility of chemical burns if left on too long. So at attention to the directions. For men that are truly brave, waxing is also an option. Keeping in mind that ingrown hairs happen so to help alleviate the problem it is important to exfoliate (remove dead skin) and moisturize  (use lotion).

Keep your nails short and clean. 

I shouldn't need to explain why long dirty fingernails are not a good look.  If your budget or schedule permits, try a monthly manicure/pedicure to have someone take care of this for you. I recommend letting them buff your nails as a way to keep the healthy shine without looking too “fancy” .Since nails grow at different rates there is no set time frame for it when to cut,  however when it is time to trim your nails, water is your best friend. Nails absorb water and as they do they soften. This is the perfect time to attack them with the clippers. Finger and toe nails become more flexible, making it less likely that you will crack or cut too low on the nail which tends to happen when the nail is stiff and dry.

Wash that Mug                                                                                                                                  Cleanse your face on a regular basis with a facial soap.Most body soaps are too strong for the face. You need to invest in a cleanser that is just for the face. No, it’s not okay to use hand soap for your face. It’s called HAND soap for a reason! Most soaps have harsh ingredients that can harm your face and actually cause you to break out. A great cleanser goes a long way. You will see a dramatic difference in the skin after one use.

Pucker up Buttercup                                                                                                                   

 Lips can suffer all year round as the sun dries them out and the cold weather can cause them to chap. My recommendation for kissable lips? Use a lip balm regularly. But use sparingly as you don’t want 

to look like you’re wearing lip gloss.

Do you kiss your mother with that mouth?                                                                                            No excuses! Obviously not everyone has perfect teeth. But that doesn't mean that you should be out here making people yield like they're at a traffic light every time you smile.  There are plenty of over the counter teeth whiteners available that are safe and effective. Brightening up your smile can take more than five years off your look. Also brushing and flossing your teeth at least twice a day might keep the dentist away but it can help you to get a little closer to that special person you've had your eye on.

And last but not least,

HYDRATE HYDRATE HYDRATE

it's great for you skin, hair, nails and your waistline.

Coming next…

Products...  what they do and my best recommendations 

      

Old man Winter is finally here. Looking at the snow falling reminded me how ruff this weather is on our skin and hair. Making me ask, "How many men out there have actually thought about changes they should be making to their grooming routines, or worse how many men are out there with no routine at all?!"
With no idea of what you need, I'm sure one or all of these apply to you. Your skin has become flaky and dull or red, cracked and flaky. Your hands are dry, your lips are probably chapped. You might even have windburn. Your beard ( if you have one ) looks and feels like steel wool and your hair like feels straw.
Pretty picture? Absolutely not!

DON'T PANIC... I've got you covered.
Just a few small steps will make all the difference.

I think when men hear the term "grooming routine" they quickly start feeling overwhelmed. I get it completely. There are so many products out there that it can be confusing and somewhat stressful trying to figure it out.
 Don't worry. No matter what skin type you have, dry, oily or combination, there are basic steps you should take to keep yourself looking and feeling your best.
If your wondering if you can afford it, take comfort, just because there are products costing hundreds of dollars out there it does not mean that you can't shoot for a decent mid range and substitute some out some of it with products you already have at home.

 I'm gonna break it down for you.

Cleansing
This is the first step of any good skin care routine. Before you apply anything else you need to remove the dust, dirt and pollutants. You should clean your face at least twice a day, once in the morning and once right before you go to sleep. Stay away from bar soap. You can even skip soap all together opting instead for a good rinse with warm water before exfoliation.


Exfoliation is the method we use to get rid of dead skin cells, dirt and other impurities. It is best to exfoliate at night. The rest of your skin care will work much better after you've sloughed off the dead stuff. Keep in mind exfoliating too frequently can strip away your skins natural oils. Which is not a good thing. Its best to exfoliate about twice a week. If you have very sensitive skin try once every other week. Most importantly, be gentle guys! There are two basic types of exfoliators, physical i.e. a scrub or a simple washcloth with cleanser. Chemical  i.e. salicylic or glycolic acid usually found in creams.
Physical exfoliation is best for darker completions, oily and combination skin.
Chemical exfoliation is best for dry and aging skin.
If you are prone to acne its best to avoid this step.

Moisturize
It’s always important to moisturise but in winter as the cold attacks our faces, causing the skin to dry up, peel and even crack it’s never been more important. Find a moisturiser that works for your skin type to keep you looking fresh-faced and youthful. Lighter moisture for oily skin and heavier creams for dryer skin.
Make sure to moisturize at least twice daily. You can apply as needed throughout the day, especially if you have out in the elements longer than usual.
Some moisturizers are petroleum-based. Petroleum can actually dry your skin out more by slowing your skins own natural oil production. Choose something easy that has natural, nourishing ingredients. Go for an oil-based rather than a water-based solution, it will help your skin retain moisture in the winter. Try natural moisturizing oils, they’re hydrating ingredients like grape seed, olive, jojoba, coconut and more, help soothe dry, itchy skin.

The Beard
Despite what a lot of people think beards do not protect you fro the elements. It needs just as much care as your skin. The good thing if you choose a natural oil-based product for your moisturizer then it's going to work great for your beard as well. Do not wash your beard more than twice a week in winter. Rinse with warm water and moisturize. Oils like coconut have natural antibacterial and anti fungal properties to keep the cooties away.

A Close Shave
For clean shaven men its worth spending a bit of extra time on the prep and post shave routine. If possible shave after a hot shower your pores will be open and the hair softer. To eliminate drag and pull make sure to rinse your razor after each stroke. Instead of aftershave in the winter it's a good idea to use a post shave cream. This will act as a balm to reduce the redness and sensitivity of the skin, reducing shaving rash which is a very common problem with dryer, winter skin.

Hydrate from the inside out. In other words
DRINK WATER!
Typically water is not talked about in grooming guides but keeping hydrated will be provide your skin with essential vitamins and minerals to look healthy and happy this winter.

Lip Care
Keep a good lip balm with you, it will keep dry lips from cracking, feeling bitten and looking like a blade cut through them! Nobody wants lips like that near them and it's painful to look at!

Hair care
Same routine, wash and condition like alway, just not as often if possible. Try to use water soluble grooming products that will rinse away in the shower without having to wash everyday. If your hair still feels dry or over staticky then use a little coconut oil on the ends. The triglycerides closely match ours and will absorb into your skin and hair.

Remember, your hair and face are the first thing most people see. No matter how stylish you dress, a great grooming routine shows attention to detail. Women will notice and love you for it.

Losing your hair, or losing your mind?

Male Pattern Baldness- Learn the facts so you can accept the truth

So you've noticed your forehead getting larger... Or does it seem like there is a spot on the mirror where your hair used to be?
Don't worry, you are not alone. Fifty percent of
men suffer receding hair lines or male pattern baldness before age 50.
     The truth about male pattern baldness (MPD) is that it is heredity. Lifestyle and diet can play minor roles in hair loss but, losing hair from medications or disease is typically reversible when treatment is stopped or lifestyle changes take place.

     There are so many myths and half-truths being passed from one generation to the next. I'm sure it can get very overwhelming. I hear them in the barbershop all the time. And as much as I would love to say, yes it is your baseball cap that is causing your thinning, it's not.
But the good news is if you're uncomfortable with your thinning hair wearing your hat will hide it without doing any damage. The hair that you lose was going to come out anyway.

So there it is, you've finally accepted that you are losing your hair. Like most men facing this issue it is hard to accept, at least at first. It's one of those things that creep up on you and remind you that you're getting older. Or in a lot of cases men feel they are becoming less desirable. (more on that later)

The big question now, what can you do?
Can you help prevent hair loss? Can you grow it back?

The good news is yes. You can help prevent future hair loss and in a few cases even regrow hair that is already gone. The bad news is, it can be costly and time consuming.

     Drugs that have been approved by the FDA are
finasteride (Propecia) and minoxidil (Rogaine).
Both have proven to be better at maintaining what you have than regrowing what you lost.

Propecia  (finasteride) works by blocking the conversion of testosterone to DHT, but a major side effect to consider: It could mess with nerve-signaling pathways to your penis, resulting in erectile dysfunction, and a deflated labido. Doctors have said that this side effect does not happen in most cases, but from my point of view... Case closed on this being better than losing some hair. You want
to talk about feeling undesirable or like less manly talk to men struggling with ED.
Rogaine works by stimulating hair growth, although scientists aren’t sure how. The problem with Rogaine is people don’t use it correctly, you have to use Rogaine at least twice a day for at least six months before you see any results. In some people it will even cause shedding in the first month or two.
If you feel like you can commit yourself to the regimen, try it. You don't have anything to lose except more hair. From my experience most people don't stick with it. Most of us are motivated by immediate results and waiting six months to see results is a fairly lengthy process considering the fact that not all of your hair will grow back in the six month time frame, that time frame is to see ANY results. 

     What about transplants? This surgery (yes it is considered surgery) that moves hair you already have to fill an area with thin or no hair. Doctors have been doing these transplants in the U.S. since the 1950s, but techniques have changed a lot. You usually have the procedure in the doctor's office. First, the surgeon cleans your scalp and injects medicine to numb the back of your head. Your doctor will choose one of two methods for the transplant: follicular unit strip surgery (FUSS) or follicular unit extraction (FUE)
      With FUSS, the surgeon removes a 6- to 10-inch strip of skin from the back of your head. He sets it aside and sews the scalp closed. This area is immediately hidden by the hair around it.
If you’re getting the FUE procedure, the surgeon’s team will shave the back of your scalp. Then, the doctor will remove hair follicles one by one from there. The area heals with small dots, which your existing hair will cover.
     The price of a hair transplant will depend largely on the amount of hair you’re moving, but it generally ranges from $4,000 to $15,000. Most insurance plans don’t cover it. As with any kind of surgery, transplants have some risks, including bleeding and infection. There’s also the chance for scarring and unnatural-looking new hair growth.
     I have dealt with clients with old school hair plugs. They are awful!! FUSS clients hair seems to be fine, but you have to leave your hair longer to cover the tell tale scar. FUE is the most natural looking with minimal if any scarring. I guess at that point it comes down to cost vs vanity.

Feeling better yet?? Didn't think so.
Don't worry the best news is coming! I stand behind this 100%! As a barber I have an  appreciation for men's look and style, as well as the delicate nature of this issue. As a woman I can definitively say for myself and every female friend, co-worker or family member I've known all agree... And so does society over all, men and women. BALD IS SEXY!!

A shaved head is a vast improvement over trying to hide an obvious problem of hair loss. In fact, research reveals that a guy with a shaved head is viewed as taller, more masculine, and more dominant than one with a full head of hair.
So much so that just by looking at a man with a shaved head people estimated that they could bench over 10% more weight than they actually do.
It is no surprise to me, that men with shaved heads were deemed more attractive than those with thinning hair.

To shave or not to shave??
If you're still feeling uneasy about doing the deed, go talk to a barber you trust. Explain what you're considering and ask for some advise. A good barber understands that this is a huge change for you and will often advise you to do it in a few stages. Allowing you to adjust to your new look before pulling the razor out.

    So what do I advise? As always, do what works for you. But understand that no matter how many supplements you try or shampoos you invest in, even the transplants don't prevent the rest of your hair from its balding process.
Accept it, in fact embrace it. There isn't anything more attractive than confidence!!
If you aren't quite at the point that you actually need to cut it off, talk to me, as your barber I've heard it all and can help you come up with the best plan of action.